From the very first clocks to the invention of the quartz crystal, a preoccupation with producing ever more accurate timepieces dominated the history of watchmaking. But after quartz, which is more accurate than any mechanical mechanism, this largely died out. Keeping the tradition going though is the COSC chronometer designation, a mark of stringent accuracy under duress - and in 2012, Tissot's Le Locle Chronometre was pronounced by the Concours International de Chronometrie to be the most accurate mechanical watch of the year.
The Chronometer
So I guess the first question here is what exactly is a chronometer? The short answer is an extremely accurate mechanical timekeeping device - clock, watch, or otherwise. But the long answer is much more complicated than that, and much more interesting.
Sketch of Jeremy Thacker's Original Chronometer
This answer takes us back to the early eighteenth century, where many of watchmaking's greatest stories begin. In 1714, English horologist Jeremy Thacker managed to create a clock completely sealed in a vacuum chamber, eliminating any air friction. He called this creation a chronometer, giving it a new name to celebrate its improved accuracy. But, as you might have guessed, sealing clocks in vacuum chambers isn't the most practical solution to the accuracy problem in practice.
ADVERTISEMENTMost innovations in timekeeping during this period were driven by the search for more accurate navigational tools. And thus breitling replica watches, the marine chronometer was born. John Harrison invented the marine chronometer sometime around 1730, which was the first clock accurate enough to ensure proper calculations of longitude during extended sea voyages. This was absolutely necessary for an empire like Britain, and it has been argued more than once that without such an invention the empire would not have been able to sustain itself for so long.
Marine Chronometer by A Lange & Söhne
Setting aside these historical antecedents though, chronometers these days are mechanical replica watches that meet certain standards of accuracy under simulated wear conditions. Within Switzerland there is COSC (Controle Officiel Suisse Des Chronometres) which must certify any timepiece bearing the word "chronometre" on it anywhere - only about 3% of all Swiss replica watches receive the certification. This protects the term's technical meaning and keeps it out of the hands of the marketing departments. Elsewhere the term is less tightly guarded, though generally it represents some amount of increased accuracy testing.
Tissot COSC Certificate
CIdC Competition
There is long history of chronometry competitions going back to at least the early twentieth century. Because the roots of chronometry lie in astronomy, various astronomical observatories acted as the testing facilities in these certification contests. As you might guess, Switzerland and England were the two major sites of these contests, with Geneva, Greenwich, Kew, and Neuchâtel being the most famous. You might remember this Patek Philippe watch containing an Observatory Chronometre movement, a rarity as most of these early contest movements were intellectual exercises and not commercially available.
Le Locle, Switzerland (Credit: evaway.fr)
Though most of these competitions died out during the quartz crisis, when mechanical accuracy became something of a lost priority, there is still the annual Concours International de Chronometrie, or CIdC. replica watches are placed in various categories and then judged against one another in a quest for modern mechanical accuracy. The CIdC is scored out of 1000 points, with even amazingly made replica watches often scoring only 300 to 400 points. Multiple COSC-style tests are completed on each watch, with exposure to magnetic fields and physical impacts introduced at intervals to disrupt delicate movements. These are serious tests.
Award-Winning Tissot Le Locle Chronometre
The Tissot Le Locle Chronometre won last year's classic replica watches competition with a whopping 764 points. Second place, with only 488 points, was taken by a watch from F.P. Journe, proving that accuracy is a game entirely separate from the other concerns of fine watchmaking.
For more on chronometer certification and competitions, please visit the official COSC website and (if you speak French) the CIdC's website.
A Closer Look At The Le Locle Chronometer's Dial
The Le Locle Chronometre
To celebrate winning the 2012 competition, Tissot released this commemorative Le Locle Chronometre. Overall it's a very handsome watch, with the little details handled nicely, at a price that won't make you wince.
The case is stainless steel with rose gold PVD coating, as are the hands and applied markers. The case band is elegantly brushed, while the bezel, lugs, and hands are all polished. Rose gold and dark grey have been a popular combination in the watch world the past year or so, and the look really doesn't disappoint. The guilloché pattern in the center of the dial is a nice addition, but while the silvered date at 3 o'clock is bright and easy to read at a glance, it's not the most aesthetically pleasing part of the Le Locle Chronometre. It's certainly not a deal-breaker though.
A Closer Look At The Le Locle Chronometre's Dial
Flipping the watch over, you find a split sapphire display back. Other than the branded Tissot rotor, there is little to no finishing on this movement. This could offer its own sort of austere, functionality-driven beauty, but the split windows makes it difficult to get a comprehensive look at the movement. It's an interesting design touch, but one that doesn't necessarily work for me.
The Le Locle Chronometre's Split Display Back
Le Locle
But even if looking at it isn't so easy, it's what's inside this watch that you should be interested in. After all, it's not a good looking dial and a well-finished case that win you a COSC certification. Now this is going to surprise you: powering the Le Locle Chronometre is a modified ETA 2824-2 movement. Yep, an ETA movement beat out those from some of the world's most prestigious brands. Like we said, accuracy is a different game entirely.
Because Tissot is part of the Swatch Group, this can be considered an "in-house" movement of sorts for the brand. Whatever your thoughts are on manufacture verses ebauche movements, you can't fight results and this just goes to show that sometimes the best functioning machine might not be the most glamorous machine. Countless 2824s are made each year, reliably ticking away in replica watches from almost every manufacturer you can think of. And in this watch the 2824-2 was enough to bring home the gold.
The Le Locle Chronometre Is Extremely Easy To Wear
ADVERTISEMENT On The Wrist
Ok, so by this point you probably get the idea - this watch is extremely accurate for a mechanical timepiece, even if it might not be the most haute horological creation you've ever seen. We know it performs in the laboratory, but how does it perform on the wrist?
To get a full sense of what this watch is like, not just how accurate it is, I took it for a spin over the course of a normal work week. My first impressions were good. At 39.3mm, the case does a nice job straddling the classic/modern line. It's not so small that it must be worn with a suit, nor is it so big as to push the dress watch category boundaries. This is definitely a watch you can wear in a variety of settings without raising an eyebrow.
The Le Locle Chronometre Wears Nice And Low To The Wrist
Setting the watch offers a nice reminder of the Le Locle Chronometre's focus on accuracy - the seconds hack, or stop, when the crown is pulled, so you can set the Le Locle Chronometre precisely to the second. Also, pull the crown out only one click and you can quick-set the date display, a convenience that is easy to take for granted until you wear a watch without this ability. Though it does not screw down, the crown clicks in tightly and the Le Locle Chronometre is rated water resistant to 100ft or 30m.
Rose Gold PVD Deployant Clasp
The case is nicely contoured and the Le Locle Chronometre sits low and tight to the wrist. It's definitely the sort of watch you find yourself forgetting you're wearing as it is so comfortable. An adjustable deployant clasp (again rose gold PVD over stainless steel) holds the crocodile embossed leather strap closed tightly and I didn't experience any problems with the deployant popping open throughout the day.
The Le Locle On The Wrist
ADVERTISEMENT ConclusionsOverall, the Le Locle Chronometre is an interesting watch at a very reasonable price. For $1,295, you get an award-winning, COSC-certified chronometre that has been thoughtfully and elegantly designed. It's obviously not interesting in the way that a piece of highly avant-garde haute horology is interesting, but nonetheless it participates in one of the most important traditions in the history of watchmaking, chronometry, and does so with great elan.
There is nothing pretentious about the Le Locle Chronometre and it doesn't pretend to be anything it is not. It is an extremely accurate chronometer from a brand that produces reliable, versatile replica watches that are accessible to a larger portion of the population than some of the other brands covered here on HODINKEE. If you're interested in the rich history of mechanical timekeeping and want a watch that will serve you well, is wearable every day, and offers an interesting story, all without costing the same as a small car, the Le Locle Chronometre is a perfect choice.
You can find more on the Le Locle Chronometre directly on Tissot's website.